Had a real treat of a day today, rock climbing with some of the UK’s greats. The Lleyn Peninsular is an area that I’ve not climbed in much, (mainly due to the vast quantities of good stuff nearer The Cottage), but an invite from Tim to join him and Pat on a day of exploration was too good to pass up. Pat Littlejohn literally wrote the book on climbing on the Lleyn and when Clare and I lived in Cornwall, he was often quoted as we worked our way though his classic “South West Climbs” rock climbing guidebook. We had met on several occasions before, but it was nice to finally meet ‘properly’ and especially to share a rope together. The disused quarry of Ty’n Tywyn was the chosen venue of the day, in order to maximise sunshine and shelter from a cool wind, and after meeting Andy and Helen, we travelled down together. Andy climbed a nearby route while Pat and Tim were scoping out a new line, and they very generously offered me a ‘ride along’ on the end of the rope, up a pump inducing E1.

I then ‘re-joined’ Tim and Pat as he tackled the first slabby section of the route.

Above this, Pat quested upwards through unknown terrain, aiming for the big overhangs at the top.

Watching him climb, I wasn’t entirely sure if my arms would be up to the job!

To reduce the rope drag, Pat took a belay on a decent-sized ledge just below the overhangs, then pulled up the ropes for Tim and I to follow. We passed a few big overhangs, but with some technique, I was relieved to not find it too hard, but the exposure felt pretty wild!

Soon enough, Tim and I were perched on the ledge sorting kit, while Pat searched for more protection and brushed away at bits of vegetation.

The roofs above were pretty wild! Moss rained down on us as Pat cleared an upward passage, seemingly unfazed about the fall potential and without showing any real signs of a struggle! Tim was up next, so I was able to watch where he went and which holds looked reasonable, but when it came for me to follow, I couldn’t quite work out the sequence. I could have made quite a wild move right to a small hold, where Pat had placed a wire, but I was concerned that if I didn’t hold it, I’d be swinging out in space very high above the beach! In the end, a quick pull on the wire meant that I stayed attached to the cliff, so although I was disappointed not to climb it ‘clean’, I was more pleased to have not had to test Pat’s belay and my prussiking skills!

I soon reached Pat and Tim who were both beaming, with the delight of having climbed yet another new route here. The way off involved a certain amount of gorse warfare!

But Pat and Tim’s local knowledge meant that they knew a quick and easy way down. I went first over the edge, while they took their time searching out more new lines. Pat an I then had a reasonable attempt at climbing this wall, but a bit of seepage made it unjustifiably dangerous, so after a good hour or so on lead, Pat eventually beat a retreat.

There was a short nearby route that Pat hadn’t climbed, so we went over to try that as a ‘consolation prize’.

Meanwhile, Tim, Andy and Helen were making their way up the main cliff of Quarry 3.

Our route was much shorter, but involved two big overhangs! Not my usual style and as we didn’t know the grade of the route, it still felt exploratory. I can’t imagine it’s had many ascents!

Thankfully, it turned out to be much easier than it looked. A good hand jam or laybacking crack helped upward progress and despite looking completely blank for feet, there were some useful footholds.

We were up and down in time to re-group with the others, then headed back to the car to reverse the travel plans. From Tim’s house I had a few final errands of the day (including voting in the election!). Clare returned home from some work in Cardiff with 8 minutes to spare before the polling station closed!

Climbs at Ty’n Tywyn Quarries

• Singing in the Rain, E1, 5c* (with Andy and Helen Teasdale)
• Supernature, E3, 6a – First Ascent. P.Littlejohn, T.Jepson, I.Martin
• Jivin’ Jacki, VS, 4c (with Pat Littlejohn).