Having spent several years of my life sleeping under canvas, I’ve experienced a pretty varied range of campsites, but nothing compares to Namibian campgrounds so far. They’ve really got it right. Obviously, the fact that it never rains is going to help any camping experience, but environment aside, each campsite that we’ve experienced so far has been completely private and between two and five kilometres from the next ‘pitch’! Each area has had its own private (flushing) toilets and shower fitted stylishly between great boulders and hot water is easily produced by means of lighting a small fire under the water tank. A covered area, tables, chairs and at this site, even sun loungers (used more for star gazing by us) are provided. There have been no sights or sounds of any other humans at each camp. In fact this morning we saw a small helicopter in the distance. The first thing we’ve seen in the air in a week. Not even a high altitude flight.

This campground (at Erongo Rocks Farm), is called Camp Kyknet and also boasts its own private trail that leads to a view point over the Erongo Crater. We got us at first light, and hiked the short trail to the top so we could watch the African sunrise. We took a flask of tea and watched as the sun came over the horizon and shadows spread across the plains below. Pretty special. We even startled a big Antelope as we crested the ridge. It moved quietly away and was instantly camouflaged in the undergrowth. 

After a good breakfast back at camp, we hiked the ‘Caracal Trail’ to the next climbing areas. 

Greek Rock was where we hoped to do a few routes, but the bolting was a bit spaced for our liking and after trying and  backing off a couple of lines, we decided to move on back to Bird Rock, which we’d passed on the walk in. 

Bird Rock had been bolted more recently, and with more of a modern (safer!) feel.

We did a couple of great routes, and had a mega crag lunch before walking back to camp. 

We lit the ‘donkey’ (water heater for the shower), and had a drink in the shade while the water warmed up. 

Probably the most luxurious camp shower around! Open air and with hot water too! Treated myself to a hair wash and a shave as well. Then after driving back towards the main entrance, we had a quick look at Hide, before ordering a delicious carrot cake and coffee at the reception. 

It felt super nice being clean and drinking from a china tea cup, sat at a dust free table and chairs. We chatted with Terry (the owner) for a while and spotted a few birds before heading back to camp at dusk. 

On arrival we found two ‘Dik-Dik’ deers bouncing around our area! Before going to bed, we lay out in the dark on the mattresses. The stars are astonishingly bright and interestingly, we saw no satellites or planes again – only shooting stars! Full of awe and wonder…

Climbs at Greek Wall:

• (Schliemann) Direct Start, 17
• Schliemann, 15 – backed off! (Spaced old bolts)
• Hannibal ad Portas, 16 – backed off off! (Spaced bolts – too risky!)

Climbs at Bird Rock: 

• Suikerbekkie, 13****
• Frankolin, 15****