I can’t remember such a prolonged period of dry weather here in North Wales. Wanting to make the most of it, we spent another evening out climbing until sunset, but this time with a much shorter walk to get to the cliffs.

Twenty minutes after leaving the house, we were setting up the initial cliffs of Milestone Buttress. We’d gone prepared again, having had an early dinner so that we could enjoy the climbing and had no need to rush.

Another team were out enjoying the evening, climbing the well positioned (and well polished), ‘Direct Route’ next to us. The climbing on Rowan Route is straight forward, well protected and very enjoyable.

We took our time, nattering on belays and soaking up the views and warmth. Although there has been a cool breeze today, we were well sheltered on the west facing cliffs.

We reached the top of the climbing as the sun neared the horizon…


A short scramble rightwards, took us to the top of the descent gully where we sat on a sunny rock until the sun went down. A 25m abseil (from an in-situ anchor on the left of the gully), gets you down past the steepest sections, then we down climbed/scrambled back to the base from there.

Lovely stuff. Home in time for a cuppa and a bit of sorting ready for tomorrow!

Milestone Buttress, Tryfan
- Rowan Route, Diff** (in 3 pitches)
Leave a comment