It was worth popping outside for ‘one last look’ last night, as we were lucky enough to witness one of the best northern lights displays I’ve ever seen. Absolutely mesmerising. Shapes and colours danced across the skies, while I lay on my back in the snow, looking up, full of awe and wonder…

It was a different scene in the morning, with low cloud, strong winds and snow flakes blowing horizontally between the huts. Huddled in the communal cabin, we felt like polar explorers as we tucked into our porridge, with a slab of salted butter with cinnamon sugar on top.

The morning routine of feeding dogs, feeding us, packing up, picking up poo, checking flasks and then heading off went pretty smoothly, although my snow anchor had frozen into the ground so I nearly got left behind!

Face masks on, big mitts and hoods up today. No photos all morning, but I did see a few Reindeer which was great, as I’ve barely seen another living creature out here, despite seeing plenty of tracks.

The worst of the weather blew through after midday. We never stopped for lunch though, as it was bitingly cold with the windchill. A brief stop for a quick plop was allowed we got.

We had a bit of drama in the afternoon, but disaster was thankfully averted. Crossing one of the lakes, we encountered a large crack in the ice. Previously, we’d crossed one gap at speed. The dogs got wet, but momentum got the sled across.

This time half the group made it, but the second guide, got wet legs so had to run back around (it was too wide to jump, and direct (drag) the dogs to go a longer way around the obstacle.

As I was at the back, my dogs sensed a short cut and I suddenly found myself heading for the water at speed! My team are very strong and I was only just able to stop them and convince them to turn and go around!

It would not have ended well in there!

We were all glad to be back on land where the trail entered some really technical driving through the trees. I think we all nearly got thrown off on one of the twists and turns. (no photos – I was holding on with both hands!).

Around 2pm, we joined a river that led to the next camp.

Here we were able to chain up the dogs, give them a quick snack and a luxurious bale of wood shavings to bed down on.

While the dogs rested, we finally got to have our lunch around 3pm, which was very well received by then. The three day old sandwiches tasted pretty good warmed up.

In a big, warm cabin, discussions, chat, jokes and a poetry contest filled the afternoon. There is no electricity out here, but one of the lads also got the wood fire sauna going, so after everyone went to bed, it was still hot enough for me to go in and then afterwards have a wash outside in the -4°C moonlight standing in a bucket of water that was warmed by the fire! Absolutely magic, and I feel new, snuggled into my sleeping bag.