An absolute dream day today. I’ve wanted to climb this ridge for well over two decades and after three failed attempts over the years, the stars finally aligned to put me, my friends, the weather, snow conditions all together at the right place and with the right time to make an ascent of what is generally considered to be ‘probably the most eyed, yet least climbed ridge in Snowdonia’.

Setting out from the Nant Ffrancon, it was a steep and arduous approach. Straight uphill and with some tortuous snow for breaking trail in. Knee deep and of variable crust strength, even on the actual ridge, which we’d hoped would provide some easier ground. We reached the approach ridge still unsure if conditions for an ascent would be favourable. We geared up in the sunshine before traversing the exciting approach ridge, which runs horizontally to the base of the steep stuff.

This continued to give slow, deep snow conditions as excitement mounted about the main event up ahead. Would it go?….

As we traversed the crest, the views in every direction were breath taking, with the mountains taking on an alpine appearance. The winter coat had turned familiar landscapes into a whole new world.

As already pre-decided, John took the first and most committing lead. From the notch between the ridges, is some exposed, unprotectable and insecure ground, which neither Aled or I fancied leading. John went to ‘investigate’ and to our delight, found a way through to easier ground, utilising protection in the form of a snow stake!

A full 60m pitch got John up onto the ridge proper (after following the guidebook advice and heading right to begin with). After another full rope length over mixed rocky and frozen turfy ground, we swapped leads and I headed off expecting to reach the summit.

But things were further than they looked! After just over 60m I found a large spike of rock to belay from and the other soon joined be at the fantastic viewpoint.

The ridge continued above and John led through for another 30m to reach the summit and handy fence post belay. I looked out and down over the frozen ground feeling like we were summiting Everest!

Finally there was nothing left to climb – we had reached the top!

The summit view and one very happy winter mountaineer!…

The fence at the top was completely coated in Rime Ice, and the deep snow meant that we didn’t need to use the stile to cross it.

From the summit, we descended the far side of Foel Goch briefly, on solid, icy snow before turning right to drop back down into the Cwm under the north face of Foel Goch.

Another easy fence crossing got us onto steep ground which would have been excellent to ski down.

But was pretty good as a bum slide!

Once down in the cwm, it was a long plod back to the valley, but with gravity on our side, it was considerably easier than walking upwards through the deep snow.

Arrived back in the valley just before 16:00 feeling suitably exhausted and awesome.

Foel Goch – Yr Esgair Ridge, Grade III**