Capo São Vicente – the South West tip of Europe

In anticipation of a long day on the road and with little in the way of comfort at the night’s accommodation, we got up at first light, packed up and set out west for the last time.

The final few kilometres to Capo São Vicente were wonderful. No one around, easy cycle way, blue skies, morning warmth and long shadows still out in front of us.

The ‘lighthouse at the end of the world’ soon came into view.

To our surprise and delight, there was a little marker with the ‘Ecovia do Litoral’ – (the section of the EuroVelo 1 Route that we’d mostly been following). Along our journey there had been several markers with kilometre distances written on them that had been gradually decreasing in size. This one had 0.0km marked on it below their bike rider emblem.

The cliffs are super impressive and drop straight down into the sea. There is documented rock climbing here, but it also seems to be more of a fishing place. There were already quite a few people on very precarious ledges with huge rods and lines. I’d have like to have seen one haul a fish up the 70m high cliffs and how they manage it with out losing the fish off the line or falling off the cliff themselves!

In summer, it’s possible to look around the lighthouse, but today it was all locked up.

As the next few sightseers arrived, we turned our bike around and began heading back east. It was against the wind, but thankfully, as hoped, it wasn’t any where near as strong as the day before.

To avoid just returning on the same trail, we headed slightly north and traveled across rough farm tracks above Sagres. The going was tough and bumpy, but relatively flat and though interesting land. There was a bit of drama when two enormous dogs came charging noisily out of a driveway and into the road. By some twist of fate, an old chap came around the corner, also on a bike, heading in the other direction. The dogs obviously liked the look for him more than me as after a few seconds on indecision regarding which rider looked tastier they raced after him, almost knocking him off his bike. As he kicked and shouted at the dogs who were trying to grab at his legs, we peddled like mad as fast as we could as the farmer appeared to try and diffuse the situation.

We arrived in Bispo feeling shaken by the bumpy track and covered in dust. It being Saturday, meant the market was on.

In order to avoid too many more rough tracks, we opted to cycle on the road that leads directly east towards Lagos. In places, we found that a new section of the road had been built and the old road had been just ‘left’, which gave some really nice riding!

There was a good sized hard shoulder on the main road, so it felt pretty safe as cars went past. The tarmac was generally smooth and the road was also slightly sheltered from the breeze, so we got our legs goings and made good progress.

Around lunch time, we pulled into a small town called Figueira, where we’d stopped previously. There is a tiny cobbled square, toilets, bus stop and most importantly a big bench. Big enough for us both to have some food and then lie down for a sleep on!

As we crested a long uphill section, we suddenly saw Lagos laid out below us in the distance! It was quite literally, down hill all the way from here!

Soon enough, we were back at the marina we’d passed through when heading west.

Tonight we’re staying in a kind of residential complex. There’s a security guard at the gatehouse, and tennis courts and a swimming pool here somewhere.

But most importantly, it’s super comfy inside, the shower is good and there’s room for bikes!

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