In the wake of the storms, a huge swell was forecast for a few fleeting hours this morning in a window of weather, where the winds dropped and changed directions. We dragged ourselves out of bed to go and have a look. Having not surfed since May, we knew that the usual spots would be to heavy for us, so we checked a few places before getting in.

As I suspected, the best area was busy with surfers – including plenty of foil surfers, who were getting towed out by a power boat. Although the waves looked impressive, we didn’t fancy getting in with so many other users, so found ourselves a sheltered although much less good bay.

I spent most of the time paddling about, but enjoyed the exercise of it. I did get a couple of rides and Clare was able to get more by dropping in quickly on her body board. It was good to be in the big seas with loads of birds flying past and the place virtually to ourselves.

I had an appointment at midday, so we left the last of the surfers and returned home as the rain began again the winds returned. A good start to the surf season and I suspect I’ll be aching tomorrow!

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