Joli Coup Baron, AD- (210m)

Finally managed to resist the lure of recent alpine living luxuries of slow starts, coffee on the balcony and late breakfasts! Instead, we felt good and rested as we set off into the cool of the morning, ready for a long climb.

The climb, called Joli Coup Baron, links up lots of cliff and climbing via a few short walks between sectors and ascends 220m in around 13 pitches of climbing (although we linked quite a few together). Less than five minutes from the car and the base is well marked with a small plaque and plenty of bolts lead the way from there to the top!

The climbing is straightforward and not dis-similar to a route that I often take students on back in Wales (the A55 Ridge), except, this one is bolted and many times longer!

The climbing was great, but the views and positions were even better. Not wanting to wear my tight technical rock climbing boots all day, and having left a comfier pair back at The Cottage, I was pleased that I was able to climb the route in approach shoe trainers.

This ‘3b’ grade overhang made for some exciting moves!

Each belay had two bolts and usually a comfy place to stand or stop for a snack. We also reduced our rope length to about 40m to save lots of hauling which worked well.

All in all, it’s a lovely journey and stays cool and shaded until just past midday.

A final walk across a grassy ledge (follow the rock cairns), got us to the base of the final wall.

We linked the slightly steeper finish to give two good length pitches rather than four short ones.

Up on top, we stripped out of our climbing gear and feasted on the remainder of our supplies. Even had a quick snooze in the sun before setting off back down on an easy path.

The way down took us past another climbing area. We didn’t have the guidebook with us, but decided to climb a couple of routes anyway as they looked nice and were still in the shade (just).

We found a number ‘4’ painted on the rock, so climbed the route above thinking it was grade 4, but it turned out that the routes are numbered 1 -20! It turned out to be within our grade at least, even if it was harder that anticipated. Clare also led another corker, we involved a very exposed last two bolt that were overhanging!

Once the sun hit the rock face, it was time to move on and we enjoyed a delightful walk though a small meadow that was packed with flowers, to join a track that descended to the car.

We stopped in Argentiere-le-Besse on the way home, so see that statue, but more importantly to have a swim in the lake near the white water slalom centre. It was really good to cool off and be able to think straight again!

Made it back to the pad, with fresh croissants around 16:30. Lovely stuff.

Rocher Baron Climbs:

  • Joli coup Baron, AD- (220m), 3c,3a,3c,3a,3b,4b,3c,4c,3c,5a,4a,4c,3b**
  • L’aura des Balenies, 6a**
  • Bratsch, 6a**

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