After a full on day of staff training coasteering along the lower cliffs of Anglesey, we made the most of the weather conditions by staying on to climb some of the bigger ones.

We’d lucked out with the warm weather as most of the day was spent in and out of the water, practicing rescue techniques and safe practice for guiding groups safely around the coast. After finishing in style with freshly cooked pizza from John’s portable oven, Clare joined us and we moved over to South Stack to prepare the ‘big abseil’.

Even though it was well into the evening, the heat was incredible. Still mid-twenties and with a slight cloud cover. Happily, there was no one else around except for millions of chattering birds.

The access to the cliffs of Castle Helen involves a full exposure 60m abseil! John and Aled went down first, to where the low tide provides a handy ledge. Clare and I soon joined them and we chose neighbouring climbs for a social experience!

Our routes started the same, but Clare traversed left to the Arête, while John continued up the steeper ground of ‘Blanco’ (HVS, 5a***).

Sweat was pouring off me just belaying the ropes and I was temped to strip off for a dip before following up to Clare’s stance.

While on the belay, we had a bit of excitement as a peregrine falcon swooped down between our two teams. There was an audible rush of air as we felt it rocked past toward the sea. Incredible and somewhat alarming as I’d not seen it coming!

All thoughts of a second route had melted away on the first pitch and we all agreed we should get to the nearest beach and get in the sea to cool down! Even though the sun was just about hitting the horizon, the water felt very refreshing and cooled us all down perfectly. Then to top things off, John produced some ice cold non-alcoholic Guinesses from his van, which we enjoyed in the last of the sunlight.

Castle Helen Climb:

– Lighthouse Arête VS (4b)**