Monkey Face, Smith Rock

Woke up to find mixed fortunes today. Good news was it was no longer cold and frosty outside. Bad news was that it had rained overnight!

We took our time getting ready then set out with a variety of gear and options…

After thinking that it might be too damp to climb, we scanned the cliffs with binoculars and decided to ‘go for a walk’ and see what it was like close up. ‘Quite dry’ was the consensus – dry enough to try at least!

After deciding against setting off up a classic four pitch climb called ‘Moscow’ that we’d been recommended, we opted for another nearby ‘4 star’ route called Super Slab. Both are trad climbs but the latter had the additional security of passing a fixed abseil station and thus, an option to retreat if required!

It proved to be a very wise decision, as no soon had Clare begun to get stuck into the difficulties above, the rain drops started to fall! Without any bolts on the route, she either had to leave some kit or push on to the safety of the bolted belay. While I pulled up my hood and kept paying out the ropes, Clare made upward progress and eventually the chains! Hoorah!

Climbing in my waterproof coat, I later joined her at the comfort of the ledge stance, which was slightly sheltered from the continuation of the cliffs that towered above us.

It was hard to tell if the rain was going to stop or not. There were still two pitches to the top of the cliff and with no option to back out once we left the ledge. It seemed like an unnecessary risk to be taking, so we stacked the ropes, threw them out off the edge of the cliff and slid safely back down to earth.

The rain seemed to be holding off a little – or at least not making the cliff too wet, so before calling it a day we made one last attempt – a long 28m pitch of a 5.8 bolted route called Papillon. It felt steep and exposed and rather intimidating, was we both made it up it.

There was definitely ‘rain in the air’ after this, so we packed up the ropes and decided to hike the trail over to see the famous ‘Monkey Face’ tower.

The trail was well made and passed by some beautiful old gnarled trees, and excellent view points.

Finally the tower came into view. It’s hard to show how impressive and big it is in a photo.

Once we passed over the Col, the change in aspect made it easier to see where it got its name from!

A very cool bit of geology…

By now it was wet enough to warrant a waterproof jacket, but we’d also committed to following the full trail around the river which flows through the State Park. With no particular rush and with it being warm enough, we took our time and soaked up the views…

The trail eventually took us back around to the areas that we’d previously climbed on and then to the car, which we reached after watching some otters playing in the river, but before getting a soaking from the rain.